Traveling With Your Pets – Do’s & Don’ts

by Diane Burket

Follow this advice and you’ll have a great trip with your fuzzy one!

* Get your dog accustomed to riding in a vehicle by taking short drives first.  I’ve had every type of dog riders – pukers, stressers, sleepers & happy dogs.  Some dogs will never be happy when riding in a vehicle—so be prepared for whatever comes up—disposable wipes, rags, towels, etc.

*Always secure your pet in a crate or carrier, or with a harness or travel seat while driving.  A free roaming dog or cat can easily get hurt or killed if you have to stop suddenly.  Cats are known to crawl under the gas or brake pedal—so be sure to keep them secure.  Pets have fallen out of windows to their death.  Very unfortunate and very avoidable.  I use a harness.  It has saved my dog from going through the windshield on more than one occasion.  She loves to go places with me and knows we don’t go anywhere without a safety harness.

*Never leave your pet alone in a vehicle. It doesn’t matter what the weather is like outside or how short of a time period you’ll be gone, leaving your pet alone in the car is incredibly dangerous. Even with the windows open, cars can easily become furnaces in hot weather, and in cold weather, they quickly become frigid.  If you absolutely, positively have to leave your pup or other pet in the car for just a few minutes—just carry a spare key and leave the vehicle running with the heat or a/c on.

Dog, Window, Truck, Semi, Pet, Animal

*Don’t feed your pet a huge meal before going on a trip. Same goes for giving your pet a lot to drink. We all know how easy it is to get a little car sick—avoid the possibility of making your pet miserable on a long car ride by only feeding light meals. If you can, try to not feed your pet in the three to four hours prior to setting off.

Bamboo Silicone Pop-Up Travel Bowl, Colors Vary

*Keep a pet kit in the car. Fill a small box with some things you might need while out with your pet: extra water, food bowl, treats, a towel, waste bags, first aid essentials, toys, pet bed and cleaning wipes (if you’ve ever had a pet get sick in your car, you know that the more cleaning aids you have on hand the better!). Keep the kit in the trunk of your car so you know that you’re always covered in an emergency.

Solvit HomeAway Pet Travel Organizer Kit

*Bring a copy of your Pet’s Medical Information.  Whenever folks bring their dogs to me for boarding, I insist they bring their Medical Records.  If anything should happen to their dog, I’ll have all the information I need to give to an Emergency Vet.

Medical, Record, Health, Patient, Form

For more helpful hints, check out this article.  Click here

Ticks – Yikes! Gross! What to do….

by Diane Burket

I don't use chemicals on my pets.  Period.  Frontline, Advantix or other topicals—They are neurotoxins and can kill your pets.  Flea and tick collars = deadly neurotoxins.  Shampoos and sprays—NO!  I love my pets and will not knowingly put them in harm's way.

So….what's a loving pet owner to do??

Shampoo your pets with Dr. Bronner's Eucalyptus Oil Soap.  Great for your pets and great for your own body, too.   Smells great and fleas and ticks hate it.

 
See a tick??  Immediately remove it very easily with a Tick Key—A low-tech, inexpensive tool to always have on hand.
I keep one on the leash, on my keychain and give many as gifts.  
Be sure to use the alcohol swabs to clean the bite area.   
Ticks can cause Lyme Disease and in some cases, will kill your pet.

If you notice your pet has any of these symptoms after removing a tick—get him/her to the vet immediately!  Take the dead tick with you to the doctor for testing.

  • ​Loss of appetite
  • Joint pain
  • Lethargy
  • Fever

Treat the area around your home with Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth. It is totally organic and safe—and inexpensive! The reason it's "Food Grade" is that some farmers add Diatomaceous Earth to the animals' feed to kill parasites.   So the Food Grade is safe for your pets and your kids!
Purchase an inexpensive flea comb.

If you see your pet itch….grab your flea comb and use right away and see if there's a flea or tick there.
The flea comb is able to remove fleas easily.  Just be sure to kill them immediately 'cuz those little guys can jump very far.   Maybe even on YOU!
My pets love to be combed with a flea comb.  😉
                                      

Feel free to leave any comments, below.  I'd love to hear from you!
 
 

 

Going On A Road Trip With Your Pet? Be Prepared!

by Diane Burket

Check out the www.BringFido.com app.
Lots of pet-friendly lodging information, airline regulations, outdoor restaurants, dog attractions, boarding, discounts and so much more!

Here’s a great article on Rover.com’s blog with tons of info about pet travel.
www.Rover.com

I occasionally board dogs with this organization and they are a terrific group of people that really love and care about dogs.
Remember to always secure your pet with a harness or be or in a crate when traveling. Just as you always wear a seatbelt for safety—your pets should be safe, too.  So many pets are injured or killed when allowed to roam freely in a vehicle.
Please plan in advance to have a great trip with your dog(s).
Enjoy!!!!

Coconut Oil – Health Benefits For You & Your Pet

By Diane Burket


I have personally used Coconut Oil for years.  I cook with it and use it as a body moisturizer. Populations that consume a lot of Coconut Oil are some of the healthiest people in the world.  It helps to increase energy expenditure and burn more fat. Coconut Oil can reduce hunger, improve blood cholesterol levels and topically—is a great moisturizer and sunscreen.  

Here’s a great video by Dr. Karen Becker about the benefits of Coconut Oil for pets.  

INTERNAL BENEFITS OF COCONUT OIL
  • Rich source of energy
  • Antibacterial
  • Antifungal
  • Easy to digest – very absorbable
  • Allergies
  • Skin & Coat Problems

EXTERNAL (TOPICAL) BENEFITS & USES OF COCONUT OIL
  • Cuts
  • Abrasions
  • Dry cracked noses
  • Sores
  • Elbow pads that are thickening
  • Great moisturizer for pads of feet – especially in winter

Have trouble giving your dog a pill?  Try hiding the pill inside Coconut Oil. Dogs will usually eat it right from the spoon.

Pet Maintenance dose:  1 teaspoon daily for every 10 – 20 pounds



Housebreaking Problems With Your Dog? Try These Easy Remedies!

by Diane Burket                                                                    


Armand Cabrera and I rescue animals—so we’ve had a lot of experience with dogs that are not housebroken.  If you’ve ruled out health issues and the possibility that your pet is marking….then here are some housebreaking methods that have worked for us.                

 The next time there’s a poop incident in your house—don’t scold your dog.  Pick up the poop with a paper towel, take it outside with your pup and put it on the ground where you want your pup to poop. Then praise your pup profusely and give him/her a treat.  It has worked every time for our pups.  

Also, we find that pier pressure can work.  Bring another dog into the house that is housebroken. Have them both go outside to do their business.  
 When you first get a dog, be sure to take him/her outside every 1/2 hour.  Emotions and fear might be pretty high and can result in accidents.  Generally speaking, a puppy can control his bladder one hour for every month of age.  Personally, I’d rather take a dog outside more often than have a cleanup to deal with in the house.  

If you work outside of your home, you’ll need to hire a dog walker.  Period.  Doesn’t matter how old your dog is—if you’re gone more than 6 hours, (less for a puppy), you should have a dog walker.  Other folks will tell you differently.  But think about it—how long do you go before taking a pee?  Are you alone all day without interaction with people…not allowed to use the bathroom?  Not a good life.  Having a pet is a big responsibility that too many people do not take seriously.  Lots of sad dogs out there.

Block off areas of the house that are targets for accidents.  No doors in that room?  Use flattened boxes or house screens.  Baby gates or pet gates work.


Pick up the water bowl about 3 hours before you go to bed.  Once your dog gets accustomed to NOT peeing in the house, you can leave the water down 24/7.

If your dog wakes you in the middle of the night, take him out quickly, then come in and go back to bed.  Don’t get him too excited and don’t play with him.

Reprimanding your dog usually doesn’t work….so try positive methods of discipline. Always reward him when he does his business outside.

Training your dog to use puppy pads or newspapers will only prolong his housebreaking training.  It’s best to spend the time in the beginning so you won’t have to worry about it forever.

Cats peeing in the corner?  Clean thoroughly and place a water bowl there.  They usually won’t pee where they drink.

When all else fails…we use this great carpet cleaner.  Very small and easy to use.  It’s a lifesaver!   Amazon usually has the best price for it.

Fat Cats—Tips For Getting Them Slim & Trim!

by Diane Burket



A fat cat is an unhealthy and unhappy cat. You might think it’s cute to be pudgy….but it’s not healthy. Fat cats aren’t able to jump, run and play like they should and may be at risk for many diseases.
You’ll rarely see a wild cat that is fat.  They’re very active and have to hunt for their food.
Indoor cats can get bored and eat too much.  
Perhaps you’re “spoiling” them with too many treats and too much food.

So….what to do if you’ve got an overweight cat?

  • Feed your cat(s) the recommended amount of nutritionally complete food.    ..depending upon their age and activity level
  • Feed 2 – 3 times per day at approximately the same time each day
  • I don’t recommend dry food for many reasons.  Read my post about this.  However, if dry food must be left out for thin, active cats—elevate it.  Keep it on a desk or shelf so the fat cats can’t get to it while the thin cats can.
  • Limit treats to less than 5% of their daily food intake (We keep regular dry food in the treat bag for the beggers in our house.  They think they’re getting treats…but it’s just food)
  • Milk is for cows—not cats.  Milk can cause diarrhea or vomiting.  Don’t feed it to your cats
  • If you’re still feeding your cats dry food, add a little water to it.  It’s filling and will keep your cat from dehydrating from dry food.
  • Schedule some play time with your cat(s) every day.  Use laser pointers,
    Da Bird Feather toys, etc.

  • Be sure to have plenty of stimulating cat trees, scratching posts and toys to keep them active

  • Keep plenty of water bowls around the house.  That will encourage your cats to drink more and he/she will feel more full.

  • My cats and dogs love water fountains.
    The movement of the water encourages them to drink.
    There are many styles from which to choose.

    Here’s a great article about how to help your cat lose weight:
    http://www.care2.com/greenliving/8-tips-to-help-your-fat-cat-lose-weight.html





      Treats From China Linked To 1000’s of Dog & Cat Deaths

      by Diane Burket                                                                        


      An absurd amount of cat & dog treats are made in China…so don’t be surprised that these Chinese products are killing and/or making our pets sick.

      The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is again cautioning consumers that chicken jerky products for dogs (also sold as chicken tenders, strips or treats) may be associated with illness in dogs. Since 2007, the FDA has become aware of increasing numbers of illnesses in pets associated with the consumption of jerky pet treats. The majority of complaints involve chicken jerky, but others include duck, sweet potato, and treats where chicken or duck jerky is wrapped around dried fruits, sweet potatoes, or yams. In the last 12 months, the FDA has seen an increase in the number of complaints it received of dog illnesses associated with consumption of chicken jerky products imported from China. These complaints have been reported to the FDA by dog owners and veterinarians. 

      The FDA is advising consumers who choose to feed their dogs chicken jerky products to watch their dogs closely for any or all of the following signs that may occur within hours to days of feeding the products: 

      • Decreased appetite
      • Decreased activity
      • Vomiting
      • Diarrhea, sometimes with blood
      • Increased water consumption and/or increased urination 

      If your pet shows any of these signs, stop feeding the chicken jerky product. Owners should consult their veterinarian if signs are severe or persist for more than 24 hours. Blood tests may indicate kidney failure (increased urea nitrogen and creatinine). Urine tests may indicate Fanconi syndrome (increased glucose). Although most dogs appear to recover, some reports to the FDA have involved dogs that have died.

      The FDA has received approximately 2,200 reports of pet illnesses which may be related to consumption of the jerky treats. The majority of the complaints involve dogs, but cats also have been affected. Over the past 18 months the reports have contained information on 360 canine deaths and one feline death. Cases have been reported from all 50 states and 6 Canadian provinces in the past 18 months.


      What can you do?  Buy treats that are made in America….and sign the petition, below.


      There’s a petition for you to sign to ban all poisonous chicken jerky treats from China.  Please read and sign the petition here:     http://www.thepetitionsite.com/takeaction/901/169/744/

        


      Flyer Templates for Lost & Found Pets

      by Diane Burket


      When your pet gets lost—time is of the essence!  Have a plan ready, in advance, so you can quickly get the word out and find your loved one.
      Check out this post on my blog for the 5 things you should do ASAP.

      http://www.infoaboutcatsanddogs.com/2012/12/lost-dog-do-these-5-things-asap.html

      Download these Lost Pet / Found Pet flyers now and keep them on your computer so you’re ready to fill in the blanks and get flyers distributed. These templates are in WORD format, so they’re easy to customize.  
      Be sure to post these flyers within at least a 1 mile radius of where you last saw your pet.  If you expect rain, put the flyers in a plastic sleeve.
      Please don’t put staples in trees.  Tape the flyers to posts and signs.

      Good luck!


      Found Cat or Dog Template

      Found Cat or Dog Template 2

      Missing / Lost Dog or Cat Template

      Missing / Lost Dog or Cat Template – with tabs



      What’s the Best, Non-Toxic Cat Litter?

      by Diane Burket

      I rescue cats…so as you can imagine…I’ve had way too much experience with good and bad cat litters.  I want to use a litter that’s economical, but that is not toxic to my cats…or to humans.  I also want a litter that will clump hard and not stick to the sides of the litter box.  So here are my ratings for 4 different kinds of litter, from best to worst.


         #1  WORLD’S BEST CAT LITTER
      PROS
                                                                        

      ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS – 100% CORN
      PET, PEOPLE & PLANET FRIENDLY
      NO SILICA DUST
      NO CLAY, CHEMICALS OR PERFUMES
      SAFE FOR CATS TO LICK PAWS AFTER USING
      CLUMPS HARD & FAST
      DOES NOT STICK TO BOX
      VERY LITTLE TRACKING
      VERY LITTLE DUST
      CHEAPER THAN OTHER LITTERS IN THE LONG RUN
           

      CONS

      None!
      This litter is the only kind we use

      __________________________________________________

                                         


      #2   SWHEAT
       
      PROS

      ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

      BIODEGRADABLE

      NATURALLY PROCESSED WHEAT

      CERTIFIED FLUSHABLE

      NO CLAY, CHEMICALS OR PERFUMES

      BIODEGRADABLE

      NO SILICA DUST
      SAFE FOR CATS TO LICK PAWS AFTER USING



      CONS
      DOESN’T CLUMP HARD

      HARD TO SCOOP

      TRACKS AROUND HOUSE
      SMELLS LIKE URINE AFTER THE FIRST WEEK
      I really wanted to like this litter.
       It’s way too hard to scoop because the clumps break up. 
      Also…the cats tracked it all over the house.
       It’s lightweight and sticks to their paws.
      Not great at smell reduction and a bit dusty.
       I won’t buy this one again.  ;-(
      __________________________________________________

      #3  BLUE BUFFALO MULTI-CAT CLUMPING LITTER


      PROS

      OK AT REDUCING ODORS

      TOXIN-FREE
      BIODEGRADABLE


      CONS

      STAINED MY CARPET BROWN

      DUSTY

      I really wanted to like this litter because Blue Buffalo makes great wet and dry dog and cat food.  But the white feet on my tuxedo cats turned brown and my carpets now have brown stains on them. ;-(


      __________________________________________________

      #4  ARM & HAMMER CLUMPING LITTER

       …AND ALL CLAY LITTERS
      PROS
      USUALLY GOOD AT CONTROLLING ODORS

      CLUMPS WELL


      CONS
      NOT SAFE FOR HUMANS OR CATS!
      CONTAINS SILICA DUST WHICH CAN CAUSE RESPIRATORY PROBLEMS & IS A KNOWN CARCINOGEN
      CONTAINS SODIUM BENTONITE— ABSORBS LARGE AMOUNTS OF LIQUID WHEN INGESTED & CAN BE A HAZARD TO LUNGS AND EYES
      NOT SAFE FOR CAT TO LICK PAWS AFTER USING—LITTER CAN CLUMP & EXPAND IN THE INTESTINE & CAN RESULT IN DEATH
      PROMOTES CLAY STRIP MINING

      STICKS TO LITTER BOX

      VERY HEAVY
      __________________________________________________

      I prefer the lavender scented World’s Best Cat Litter.
      My cats seem to like it too!





      Best Cat Litter Boxes…How Many & Which One Is The Best?

      by Diane Burket        

      We rescue cats (and dogs), so we normally have at least 4 cats in our home.  The rule for the number of litter boxes is:  1 litter box for every cat.  If you can—provide 1 extra box.  We’ve got 4 cats and 4 boxes—2 covered boxes and 2 uncovered.
      We scoop the littler at least 2 times a day…more if we smell something gross.  If you maintain enough boxes and keep them clean, you probably won’t have problems getting your cat(s) to use the box.

      Some cats don’t want to use a litter box.  Usually they have good reasons:

      • It stinks
      • The litter is scented
      • The box is not scooped often enough (would you like to use a toilet that already had poop in it?!)
      • The litter is old, smelly and/or dusty
      • The cat doesn’t like the type of litter you’re using.  Try another kind.
      • Too much litter in the box
      • Not enough litter boxes in the house and the box is occupied by other cats
      • The cat doesn’t like covered boxes;  the cat doesn’t like uncovered boxes
      • Geriatric cat cannot easily get into the box.  (We built a little ramp for an old cat)
      • Litter box is in the wrong place—too much traffic or noise.  Hard to access.
      • A medical condition that has not been addressed
      • Our cats LOVE this box!
      •  
        A word about automatic litter boxes:
        They’re not cheap…so make sure you do your research.  After speaking with a friend who LOVED her LitterMaid Automatic Self-Cleaning box, I bought one.  What a nightmare!  My old cats were having trouble navigating the ramp and doing their business in the right place, poop was getting stuck in the rake and falling in-between the waste receptacle onto the floor.  Often, the rake couldn’t push the crap to the receptacle, it was very noisy, too expensive and I spent way too much time trying to clean it. If you buy an automatic box, I hope your experience is much better than mine.  Read the reviews on Amazon before buying anything.
      Here’s another helpful tip—-place your litter box inside an underbed storage box.  Ya know—the kind of box you store things in under your bed?  That way, when your cat steps out of the litter box, the extra litter will stay inside the storage box.  Here’s a picture of one of our boxes….
      Litter Box inside Underbed Storage Box
      This Litter Mat is in the Storage Box.
      It cleans the litter off the cats’ paws before stepping onto the floor.